MORCILLA DE BURGOS
Blood sausage + rice + black pepper. Add a fried egg, chalice of red wine, and bread and you really could dig my happy grave where I sit. This is pueblo food at its simplest and sometimes, best. My favorite producer is in the village of Belorado, Ana María.
This city has much to take in and can easily be explored in one-two days. The Catedral is a must, dates back to the 1200s, and is the only cathedral that holds UNESCO status. Visit the Abbey of Santa María la Real de Las Huelgas then take a walk back in time simply crossing the street & meandering the small neighborhood.
Calle Arco de Pilar, 8 - Burgos +661 00 79 73
The salivation tour of Burgos starts here. Not only do they have some of the best Iberico cebo & bellota hams I've ever tasted, they also offer Spanish-cured Wagyu beef (crossed w/ a Spanish breed) and jamón de cordero lechal (suckling lamb (milk-fed only) cured just like jamón serrano) - of course, these are seasonal and/or available upon owner, Carlos' jaunts around cure-caves the peninsula over. The best part is, the product is tops AND they fricking know how to cut it. Watching staff knife skills on ham is like pornography in a salt-cured food world. Wash it down with Sherries, Cavas, Champagnes, and other good wines on offer.
Paseo Arco de Ladrillo, 28 - Valladolid +628 66 98 24
Eating well in Spain is more difficult than one would imagine. With access to some of the world's best raw materials, shining light on these products is often overlooked. Chuchi's place was one of my top two finds during the 2016 visit. On a back street close to an overpass lies this nest of culinary splendor. Simple yet difficult preparations render purity of flavor.
Plaza Eustaquio de la Torre - Peñafiel +983 88 00 07
Arguably Castilla y León's best antique shops. Splendid finds abound from all over Spain & beyond and... They ship.
Huerta del Marqués, 2 - Arévalo (Ávila)
They serve it all over the country but you only need to eat oven-roasted, little piggies here. The meat falls off the bone, the skin cracks it's so crispy - I'm hungry just thinking about it from 6,000 km away! One of Spain's top two places for suckling pig - the locals know it as this place is PACKED day in and day out. Reservations highly recommended. They also make a mean revuelto de morcilla (scrambled eggs + blood sausage) and their seasonal vegetable dishes are spot on! When they have leche frita (fried milk), order it!
LA PULPERÍA COMPOSTELA
C/ Santa María 41 - Cacabelos
Unassuming, classic, packed. Even though bread is often overlooked (never forgotten, but quality is tough to find), the bread here is on point. Hearty along with portions to feed a family and we're talking Castilla La Mancha meets Galicia par excellence. Galicia is a hop skip and a jump and the food here reflects that influence.