MORCILLA DE BURGOS
Blood sausage + rice + black pepper. Add a fried egg, chalice of red wine, and bread and you really could dig my happy grave where I sit. This is pueblo food at its simplest and sometimes, best. My favorite producer is in the village of Belorado, Ana María.
This city has much to take in and can easily be explored in one-two days. The Catedral is a must, dates back to the 1200s, and is the only cathedral that holds UNESCO status. Visit the Abbey of Santa María la Real de Las Huelgas then take a walk back in time simply crossing the street & meandering the small neighborhood.
Calle Arco de Pilar, 8 - Burgos +661 00 79 73
The salivation tour of Burgos starts here. Not only do they have some of the best Iberico cebo & bellota hams I've ever tasted in Castilla y León, they also offer Spanish-cured Wagyu beef and jamón de cordero lechal (suckling lamb (milk-fed only) cured just like jamón serrano). The best part is, they fricking know how to cut it. Owner Carlos often mans the board and watching his knife skills on ham is like pornography in a salt-cured food world. Wash it down with Cavas, Champagnes and Sherries on offer among other wines.
Calle Huerto del Rey, 4 - Burgos +947 27 37 87
Sliced and grilled pancetta never tasted so good. Drizzle it with an ethereal sauce of ginger, garlic, cilantro... One bite was surprising. The second was pure ecstasy. The third, disbelief. Their morcilla (blood sausage) beats any I've had out in Burgos, spiked with slatey sea salt and freshly grilled red peppers.
Paseo Arco de Ladrillo, 28 - Valladolid +628 66 98 24
Eating well in Spain is more difficult than one would imagine. With access to some of the world's best raw materials, shining light on these products is often overlooked. Chuchi's place was one of my top two finds during the 2016 visit. On a back street close to an overpass lies this nest of culinary splendor. Simple yet difficult preparations render purity of flavor.
Plaza Eustaquio de la Torre - Peñafiel +983 88 00 07
Arguably Castilla y León's best antique shops. Splendid finds abound from all over Spain & beyond and... They ship.
LA BODEGA DEL BARBERO
Alhondiga 2 - Segovia
Atmosphere isn't much to shake a stick at here but the cochinillo asado (suckling pig) is well worth it. Wash it down with one of the many well-sourced wines and work it all off walking the hilly streets of Segovia.
LA PULPERÍA COMPOSTELA
C/ Santa María 41 - Cacabelos
Unassuming, classic, packed. Even though bread is often overlooked (never forgotten, but quality is tough to find), the bread here is on point. Hearty along with portions to feed a family and we're talking Castilla La Mancha meets Galicia par excellence. Galicia is a hop skip and a jump and the food here reflects that influence.